Eddie Hill wrote:With a 365 cubic inch all-iron Chevrolet in my Lola T-70 Coupe, my 0 to 60 mph averaged about 3.2 seconds, with a best of 3.0.
0 to 100 average about 7.5 seconds, worst was 7.9, best was 6.9 seconds.
0 to 120 around 9.9 to 10.9
0 to 150, only one two-way run, 17.2 seconds into the wind, 15.7 with the wind.
Dyno sheet on the iron engine is 512 HP at 6700, 478 foot pounds @4500.
I am about 90% done with the installation of an all-aluminum 440 cubic inch Small-block Chev that dynoed at 672 HP@ 6900; 603 foot pounds @ 5000,; so with 160 more HP and about 90 pounds less weight, should be a nice improvement in the above figures!
Eddie
Eddie,
A few tips on your gearbox since you will be putting extra power through it soon. The LG 500/600 differential section of the case can be strengthened by installing bracing tubes between the left and right sides internally. The Shadow Can Am team did this long ago, Lee Miur showed me what they did.
There is a lot of side pressure on the left side cover and studs from ring gear thrust. I've found damaged stud threads in the left side cover area, especially at the 4 and 5 O'clock position, where the case is bored inside for the reverse idler spud. The backside of the flange is thin there plus the whole lower part of the flange/sump area, is unsupported.
The improved "MkII" version of this gearbox used thicker side covers and 3 cast-in tubular structures inside for the lower three side cover bolts. Hewland increased them from two on top, to six 3/8" through-rods, 3 on top, 3 on the bottom that tie the left and right sides of the differential case section together.
It is possible to change side covers to the thicker MkII type, add 3 lower internal tubes, and add 3 through rods to tie it all together. OR just add the 3 lower rods and use your current side covers. On mine I made 3 steel spool shaped pieces placed internally, then threaded grade 8 5/16" studs into them. I didn't want to weaken the side covers by drilling them out to 3/8". In the photo you can see where I had to weld the area in the LH side 4 to 5 O'clock position, I had a crack there. I also added a nut and flat washer behind the 5 O'clock stud and used a longer stud there.
Sorry the image is fuzzy, it's a scan of a poor photo.
David