The AN connection is tight now with the help of a SECO seal. I filled the fuel system again and everything is tight
.
Next thing I did was to finish the oil lines from the engine to the filter and cooler. I had them already, but made them ready for installation now. The rubber hose is clamped, and the fire sleeve goes over everything. Then the ends of the fire sleeves are sealed with silicone tape:
Another issue was the engine starter. I knew I really wanted to have it perfectly right BEFORE dropping the engine into the car. However, it took me a while to find out that the starter gear does NOT have to retract when the engine doesn't start. So I shimmed the starter more and more, trying to get it to retract, to no avail of course
. Until I found the relevant info on the net, explaining that reduction gear starters only retract when the engine starts. With that I took all the shims out again and adjusted the gear backlash to the recommended value. I was also concerned to turn over the motor "dry" - but I had to test the starter, but also to install and do final adjustments to the ignition/distributor. So I lubricated the cylinders through the spark plug holes as good as I could and went ahead. Here's the starter test setup:
I am very good at procrastinating certain things
and the radiator vents on the nose were among these. You remember, the initial plan was to cut openings into the nose piece and glue in flaps. But I wanted a system which could be changed and adapted more easily - and if possible without the use of duct tape
. So, again, I choose the more time consuming version, which are metal covers, set into the nose piece, into which I can cut openings/vents as needed. Here's the cardboard template and first aluminum cover cut and drilled:
There is a slight curvature on the nose piece and I had to bend the covers into shape with my trusty little roller bender:
The covers bent, drilled, and taped to the nose piece to transfer the mounting holes. To be continued.